Here are some more Top Tips which answer common questions about using your Overlocker / Serger on various fabic types.
1. How to Serge Sheer or Very Light Fabric
2. How to Serge Stretchy Fabrics
3. How to Serge a Fabric That Frays A Lot
4. How to Serge a Rolled Hem
1. How to Serge on a Very Light or Sheer Fabric e.g. Chiffon, Voile, Organza, Fine Netting, Lace etc
If you are serging a very light fabric then directly serging a seam may end up with the seam looking twisted and messy, because the serging process and serge threads are heavy for the fabric to bear and serging process may cause the fabric to mis-shape.
The solution to making your seams neat, straight and even on light weight fabrics is to use water soluble stabiliser. This is something that is very often used in embroidery but it works well for serging edges and seams of fine fabrics too.
The advantage of soluble stabiliser is that it saves you lots of time and stress having to adjust the tensions of your needles and loopers to exactly handle a fine fabric: it gives the fine fabric some body to hold the serger stitches neatly.
Note: As its water soluble, take care using it on fabrics which should not have water on them, for example taffeta, as the water needed to remove the stabiliser may leave a water mark on such fabrics. Fabrics such as netting and lace etc this won’t be a problem.
Water soluble stabiliser comes in rolls and you simple cut a little strip and lay it on the edge as you serge over it. You can pin it or tack it if your wish but you may find you don’t need to and just apply it by hand as you go. The overlocker / serger needles will pass through it very easily and you will find it holds the fabric in place and gives a bit of body to it while you serge.
Once you have finished serging the seam, cut away any excess and then you can dissolve the stabiliser by spraying a little water on it from a water mister. You might want to use a toothpick or a cotton swab to help dissolve it. The stabiliser will dissolve completely leaving you with a beautiful serged edge.
What is especially good about stabiliser is that it dissolves completely and does not leave any trace. The fabric is not left unusually stiff (as though you had applied a glue, for example) and nor is it too sticky when it dissolves. It dissolves in cold water as well as luke warm.
I would recommend that you test a small amount first on a spare piece of fabric before applying it to your garment, so that you can get used to how it handles and dissolves.
Stabiliser is advertised as being made from 100% pure natural material and is non toxic, and does not contain acid or lead. It should not cause any itching or skin issues even if you have used it on serged seams that may rub against your skin. Never-the-less, always read the instruction that are advertised and come with it, for yourself.
2. How to Overlock / Serge on Stretchy Fabrics
Overlocked stitches are particularly good on stretchy fabrics such as wool or sporty fleece as overlock / serge stitches do stretch and flex without the threads breaking.
If you are overlocking or serging a seam or edge on a stretchy fabric which you do not wish to stretch, for example a fabric that once stretched does not return to its original shape, then you can deal with this by folding some tape (or ribbon) over the edge along the whole seam as you serge, to keep it firm and unstretched.
If you don’t want to use tape an alternative is to actually fold the edge of the fabric over on to itself, so it is doubled. Remember this extra fold of fabric will come out of the seam allowance. In this case be sure to disengage the knife, because you don’t want any of the folded double fabric trimmed away.
3. How to Overlock or Serge a Fabric That Frays A Lot!
Serging the edge of a highly fraying fabric can be difficult if the fabric is fraying madly while you’re actually overlocking / serging!
There are a couple of options.
i. Prevent Fraying with Anti Fray Fabric Spray
One option is an anti fray fabric spray. These sprays are often effective but you do have to take care with the chemicals they contain, while you are using them.
ii. Solve Fraying by Doubling the Fabric Before Overlocking / Serging
Another solution to fraying is to double fold over the fabric you are overlocking / serging and sew along the double width fabric. Effectively you have folded the seam allowance back onto itself and overlocked / serged along that.
If you are serging along a double width fabric remember to disengage and fold away the blade as you do not want part of the double folded edge to be cut away.
4. How to Overlock / Serge a Rolled Hem
To create a rolled edge on an overlocker / serger you only need to use one needle.
If you want a wide stitch remove the right needle and use the left needle (the one furthest from the machine). To have a narrower stitch remove the left needle and use the one on the right (closest to the machine)
Right Needle = Narrow Stitch
Left Needle = Wide Stitch
On your overlocker / serger to you need to adjust the switch setting from S (Standard stitch) to R (Rolled stitch). This switch may be located in the machine somewhere below the presser foot. Check your overlockers /serger’s manual to locate yours.
Some overlockers / sergers do not have a Rolled Stitch setting in which case you can change the needle plate (which sits below the presser foot) to one designed to do rolled stitching. The rolled hem plate may come with your overlocker /serger or you may need to purchase it separately.
To overlock / serge a rolled hem you will need to increase your looper tension setting up to its maximum tension. You then overlock / serge the edge of the fabric in the normal way. A shorter stitch gives a better look because less of the fabric shows through between the stitches and the rolled edge is more filled in with thread but you should experiment to see which you prefer. The minor disadvantage is that it uses more thread so don’t try this if you’re running short of thread!
Nylon thread is generally thicker and so the gaps between stitches appear more filled in, that is, less of the fabric shows through.
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