Here are a few tips to help you when you first start to use your Overlocker / Serger.
Relax!
Well the first thing to do is relax! Many people are very nervous that it might be too complicated but its really not that bad at all once you get the hang of it. Give yourself time to get to know your machine and just play around. Don't use it for the first time under pressure. Remember to enjoy using it: when you've got used to how to use it you will be delighted with the results!!
Serger Stitch Types
An overlocker / serger has essentially 3 different types of overlock stitch which are:
2 thread - uses1 needle
3 thread - uses 1 needle
4 thread - uses 2 needles
The 2 thread and 3 thread type stitches use just one needle and the 4 thread stitch uses both of the needles.
When you use only one needle then you can use either needle but using the inner (right hand side needle) will give you a narrower stitch and the outer (left hand side needle) will give you a wider stitch. Remember to remove the needle you are not using.
Starting to Serge It is good practice when you start overlocking your work to create a thread chain. Do this before you start to feed your fabric through, under the presser foot. Create a thread chain by holding the thread ends in your left hand, slightly to the back of the presser foot, and then gently press the foot peddle. This will create a line of looped stitches along the thread.
Leave the thread chain laying towards the back of the machine. Then, with the presser foot already down, start to feed your fabric underneath the presser foot.
When you have finished your line of overlocking / serging, then thread that chain back through underneath the end stitches to keep it secure and so it won't fray (more of this later, below).
Tension Settings
Setting the tensions is something that most frightens people about serging but don't worry, its not as bad as you think but it does take a little effort.
You are going to have to refer to your manual and to set the tension according to your specific machine / manual, as all overlockers / sergers are not exactly the same.
If you are really lost many people say tension 4 is a good middle starting point for an average fabric (whatever average is!), test it out on some spare fabric and then adjust from there. However the chart in your manual really will give you a better idea of where to start off the tension and then adjust it depending on what width stitch you use, the thickness and weight of the fabric you are using.
You won't get it exactly right first time, no one does, but you will learn as you go. Initially you will need to play around with different settings but as you become more familiar with your overlocker / serger you will get to know what your favourite and most commonly used settings are.
The presser foot should be down before you start to sew, but the fabric not yet under it. If you want to cut the fabric the serger knife should be clicked into the down / engaged position.
Put the fabric you are going to serge on the machine against the front of the presser foot, but NOT under it to start. As you slowly start to feed power in the differential tracks underneath the presser foot will engage the fabric and start to feed it through the overlocker / serger.
TOP TIP
Do NOT lift the presser foot and bring it down ON the fabric, as when sewing with a normal sewing machine: with an overlocker / serger start off with the presser foot down but fabric not yet underneath it. This is where many people go wrong. Start be creating a thread chain!
When you get to the end of your fabric, continue sewing on for a few inches past the end of the fabric to create another small length of thread chain. This thread chain is then working back underneath the last stitches on the fabric to make a secure non-fraying end.
How to Complete an Overlocked / Serged Seam
When you have finished a section of sewing on your overlocker / serger you will have the thread chains that you created at each end. Take a large eyed embroidery needle, thread the tail through the needle (use a needle threader to help you, if necessary) and run it under the stitches along the first few inches of the seam you have just sewn. Leave about an inch or so tucked under and cut off the extra. This makes sure to leave a nicely finished end which will not fray or come undone.
How to Unpick an Overlocked or Serged Seam
Don't go snip happy: do this carefully and you'll save yourself a lot of work picking up tiny bits of thread!!
Use small thread scissors (which have a long, narrow, sharp point) or a seam ripper to snip the single line machine threads (not the loops) at intervals along the seam. Then use your tweezers to get hold of pieces of that snipped thread and pull it out. As the machine line of thread is removed, the all the looped stitches will immediately come loose and you can lift off one long piece of thread. This is much easier than snipping up all the loops because it doesn’t leave lots of tiny bits of thread to clear up!
How to Adjust the Presser Foot Pressure on an Overlocker / Serger
The presser foot holds the fabric in place as the stitches are made and the fabric is pulled underneath the presser foot by the differential, feed dogs.
If you are working with a very heavy fabric you may need to increase the pressure of the presser foot so that the fabric is held steadily. Likewise, if you are working with a very fine or lightweight fabric then you will not need such a heavy pressure to handle the fabric. The button to adjust the presser foot pressure is usually located on the top of the overlocker / serger. Very often it is a screw which you will need to turn to change the pressure. This may be different depending on which overlocker / serger you use so to see how to adjust this then check your overlocker / serger’s manual.
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