As with normal sewing machines, there are a broad range of issues and problems that can crop up which means your overlocker / serger doesn't work as you expect.
Here are tips for the top 5 problems that we have found users experience.
Broken or Blunt Needles and Blades on Overlockers / Sergers: Turn Power Off!
Before adjusting any settings or handling the needles and blades of your overlocker / serger get into the habit of making sure the power switch is in the OFF position so no power is passing into your machine. Overlockers / sergers have sharp needles and blades and if even for a moment you accidentally rest your foot on the peddle and start the machine up, for example, you could have a nasty accident.
The power switch is usually a rocker switch on the right hand side of the machine but check your own model to make sure you quickly know where it is!
To change needles and blades, loosen the screws enough to remove the needle or blade, but don't fully remove them as you run the risk of dropping them in the machine!
(To remove a needle or screw dropped in the machine, use a magnet on a stick! See Useful Equipment for your Overlocker / Serger)
What if the interlocker / serger is not cutting away the excess fabric?
Check that you have the blade properly clicked into the engaged position. Check your manufacturer’s manual for your specific overlocker / serger to see exactly where the handle to engage the blade is located but it is very often situated just to the right of, and slightly higher than, the presser foot.
The blade may be blunt. If you have used the blade quite a lot or for some heavy cutting then it may be time to change the blade. Check your manual how to do this.
Dispose of the old blade very carefully and take care when around children. Take care handling the blade as it is (and should be) extremely sharp!
What if the interlocker / serger is not stitching evenly?
Check that the thread reels on the spool holders (those sticks at the back) are not loose and wobbling but are held comfortably in position by the plastic inner grips ( the “widgets” which fit over the spool holder and inside the thread reel).
If the thread reels are held too tightly the stitches will also be uneven as the thread coming of the spools will be too restricted.
If you are working with a shiny thread try nets over your thread reels to stop it slipping loosely around the base of the spool holder and to give a consistent thread feed.
Why does my overlocker / serger thread keep breaking?
If the thread on your overlocker / serger keeps breaking there are several things to check.
1. Check Reels Can Rotate Freely
Check the thread reels are not secured too tightly onto the spool holders e.g. by the plastic inner “widgets”. The spools should be free to rotate but secured enough so they do not wobble or over rotate.
2. Check your tensions (see separate Tension article and consult your manual).
3. Check Quality of Your Thread
Check the quality of your thread. Although saving money by using cheaper thread is tempting it may end up being a false economy if it keeps breaking in the middle of your sewing and its frustrating to have to keep rethreading the serger.
What if my overlocker / serger is having problems creating stitches?
Check if your needle is still sharp. You do need to replace them if they start to get blunt, so always keep spares. How often you replace them depends on what you’re sewing.
Check your needles are held firmly enough in place by the screws (but do not over tighten, which may damage the screws).
Troubleshooting Tension Issues
Looper Tension
If the tension is correct the looper threads for both above or below should not be visible on the opposite sides of the fabric, but should meet precisely at the edge of the fabric. So, the upper and lower tensions should be evenly balances.
If the upper or lower threads are being pulled to the opposite side of the fabric then the tension needs adjusting because the side its being pulled towards is pulling too tight or the side it is being pulled from is too loose.
To try to correct the problem you will need to take your time and methodically adjust the tension and then try it out on a piece of spare fabric. When you find a tension combination that works make a note of all the settings along with a note of, or even better a small sample of, the fabric and thread types so that you know for next time.
Needle Thread Tension
Adjusted the needle tension on your interlocker / serger is similar to how you adjust a normal sewing machine tension. If the fabric is crimpled and puckered up then you have the tension too tight. If the thread is coming through the fabric from the other side then it is too lose and needs to be tightened.
When adjusting the tension, the best way to learn is to take some spare fabric and actually try out what happens as you slowly increase and decrease tensions and then try out how it works for different fabrics. Sit and play with the stitches, without the pressure or constraint of actually making anything, just to get the feel. Make notes to remind you of what happens when you make adjustments.
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