Q What is an Overlocker or Serger?
Briefly, an overlocked or serged stitch is one that goes over the edge of two pieces of fabric being sewn together to create a finished seam. It can also be used to leave a finished edge on a single piece of fabric. Overlocking, or serging, is typically used on hems, seams and edges of fabric to give edges a finished professional look, to add strength and also to stop edges fraying.
Q What is the Difference between an Overlocker and a Serger?
Overlocker is the term usually used in the UK whereas the term Serger is used more in North America.
The terms tend to be considered as being interchangeable these days although actually there is (or can be) a difference. Strictly sergers have a blade that cuts away excess fabric but overlockers do not cut fabric but the convention is now to use the terms interchangeably.
In these articles where the term serger is used this will also refer to an interlocker.
Q How does an Overlocker Work?
Overlockers / sergers works differently from normal sewing machines. Whereas a traditional sewing machine has a bobbin for the lower thread, a serger has several thread cones, usually located high up, near the back of the machine. Loops of thread feed down through the machine both to the needles and under the fabric. The threads are joined and looped over the edge of the fabric such that the fabric is enveloped by thread, which conceals and strengthens the raw fabric edges.
Overlockers / sergers work at higher speeds than traditional sewing machines. Often quotes as running between 1000 and 9000 rotations per minute (rpm).
Q When is an Overlocker or Serger used?
Overlockers / sergers are both speciality sewing machines in the domestic market and they are becoming more popular for the home sewer, perhaps because of their increased availability. Predominantly overlockers / sergers are used for commercial output as they add a neater, more tailored, decorative and professional look, for example to garments.
Another advantage of overlocking is that it prevents fraying if you are using a high fray fabric. This prevents lots of lose threads on the garment and looks very much neater than many loose ends.
Q What are other names for Overlocking?
As already mentioned, overlocking can also be known as “serging” but it is sometimes referred to as “merrowing” or “overedging” too.
Traditionally the term “serging” was specifically used where an overlocker also cut the fabric but nowadays it has come to refer to all kinds of overlocking.
Q Does an Overlocker or Serger Use Many Threads?
Yes. An overlocker or serger uses threads from 2 up to 5 spools of thread, depending on which machine you choose and how you choose to use it. The overlocker / serger, loops the threads around edges where 2 fabrics join together or where the overlocked finish is required.
Q What Else Can an Overlocker or Serger Do?
A Serger Trims as it Sews
An overlocker / serger cuts away any excess fabric along a seam or edge as it sews and it leaves a neatly finished, over sewn edge which looks professional. Trimming the edge for you as you sew saves a lot of extra effort and time in having to trim the excess fabric away either before you sew or after. This is another reason sergers are often used commercially. Remember, not all overlockers / sergers have blades but if you are buying one it may be worth getting one that offers this option. The blade can be disengaged if you don’t want it to cut.
Overlockers / Sergers Create Rolled Hems
A rolled hem is a great way to give your sewing a finished and professional look and it’s very easy to do on a overlocker / serger. More notes on rolled hems here.
Overlockers / Sergers Create Gathers
Overlockers / serger can be used where you are creating gathers.
Overlockers / Sergers Can Create Beautiful Multi Coloured Hems
Overlockers / sergers use multiple threads from several different thread spools. If you use different colour threads you can create some very interesting and beautiful edge effects.
Q Can Overlockers / Sergers be Used on Knitted Fabric?
Yes! Overlockers / sergers are brilliant to use on knitted fabric and if you knit and are constructing a garment they are quick. Overlockers / sergers create a stitch type that is not only strong but will stretch with the fabric but also will keep its shape, so a overlocked stitch is the perfect stitch type for edging or joining wool fabric!
Q Can Overlockers / Sergers be Used on Stretch Fabric?
Yes! Overlocked stitches will allow for flexibility while also holding the shape. And overlocked stitches will not break as a regular machine stitch would if a garment is stretched out. It’s the ideal way to stitch stretchy fabrics e.g. track suit type thin fleece fabric. If you want to serge a hem that you don’t want to stretch you can serge, some tape into the seam as you go.
Q Can an Overlocker / Serger Do a Simple Straight Stitching?
Unfortunately no, you cannot do a normal straight running stitches as with a normal sewing machine and nor can you sew styled stitches such as zig-zags or curves. You can’t sew a simple hem or do basic applique, so for example you wouldn’t use an overlocker / serger to sew on a patch pocket.
For that kind of sewing you would still need a traditional sewing machine and that’s why it’s ideal to have both types of machine, to compliment each other.
Q So What is the Advantage of an Overlocker / Serger over a Sewing Machine?
For the home sewer, a serger is perfect for a professional finish. If you are making gifts or want home made clothes to look professional then finishing off your edges and seams by overlocking them certainly looks impressive!
An overlocker / serger cuts away excess fabric at the same time as it sews, so its quick and easy to get a perfect finish.
Overlocker / serger seams which have multiple threads are more robust than a single thread type seam.
Where the overlocked threads loop around the edge, the seam will not fray.
Serger seams are great on stretch fabrics and knits.
Q Can an Overlocker / Serger Replace a Sewing Machine?
No. You will still need your traditional sewing machine if you want to sew normal running stitches, styled stitches, button holes etc. A serger compliments a normal sewing machine so ideally you would have both to make and beautifully finish garments and for all your sewing projects.
Q Do I Really Need an Overlocker / Serger?
If you do very little sewing or are just dabbling then you can get by without one. People have been happily home sewing for years without an overlocker / serger.
However, if you enjoy home sewing and you want your home sewing projects to look more professional and very well finished, especially if you create things for other people or make gifts and you want to seriously impress them, then an overlocker / serger will brilliantly complement your sewing machine and lift your creations to the next level. If you make things to sell, for example at craft markets or on Ebay, then an overlocker / serger will give your creations a fabulous professional finish!
Overlocker / sergers do things quickly!! And you can finish edges, for example, far faster than you could be hand or with a regular sewing machine. An overlocker / serger neatly and accurately trims away excess fabric which can be very fiddly and time consuming to do.
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