Overlocking / serging on knitted fabrics is a little different than other fabrics. Here are a few top tips to help you before you start work on your knitted fabric project!
1 Be Sure to use the Correct Needle Type
Using the correct needle is very important for overlocking / serging on knitted fabrics. The best needle to use for knits is a ballpoint needle which has rounded point rather than a sharp point and is designed to push through the yarns of the knitted fabric rather than snagging on them. Hence stitches are not skipped stitches or snagged in the fabric.
2 Choose the Correct Thread Type
Choice of thread can make or break a knitted fabric project on your overlocker / serger. To overlock / serge on knits it is better to use a high quality, stretchy type thread which is specially designed for knitted fabric. Woolly nylon thread is a popular choice for knits. If you have spent a lot of time and effort knitting parts of a garment, it is worth taking the time and little extra expense to get the correct thread.
3 Correctly Adjust the Differential Feed
The differential feed controls the speed of the front and back feed dogs (those cogs that pull the fabric through the overlocker / serger as you stitch). You need to set them correctly so that you don’t overly stretch or create puckers in the fabric or wool. This is where you need to experiment on scrap pieces or fabric or knit so that you get to understand exactly how your overlocker handles knitted fabrics. If you are going to include tape or ribbon e.g. to maintain the shape of a seam, be sure include some of that ribbon or tape in your practice piece too, as it will make a difference to your settings.
4 Test Tensions and Stitch Length Before You Stitch (and Cut!)
Before you actually start stitching the item, test different stitch settings on a scrap piece of fabric to ensure you have the correct thread tension and stitch length.
As you are testing out and adjusting the tension and stitch length, make small changes at a time and only change one thing at a time. This way you get to clearly understand what the machine is doing.
Keep a notebook and make a note of the settings you like for each fabric! This makes it so much easier the next time you have a similar project!
As you become more familiar with your overlocker / serger you will need to do this less often.
5 Use a Stabiliser
If the knit is very stretchy then try using a stabiliser as you overlocker / serge to prevent the fabric stretching out of shape and to keep the stitches even.
There are some very good stabilisers on the market now. You can get a stabiliser that dissolves with water after stitching and does not leave a residue.
6 Use Pins Sparingly!
Take great care using pins especially with knitted fabrics. Pins can create puckers in the fabric or create distortions as you sew. Clips are usually a better option or washable tape.
The old fashioned way was to run a basting stitch gently along the fabric: this adds time but will probably give you the best outcome, rather than pins, and prevent bunching up and unwanted gathers.
7 Use a Seam Guide
It can be difficult to keep a consistent seam allowance when using an overlocker / serger. Take care to use a seam guide to help you stay on track and with woolly fabrics stitch a little slower than normal.
8 Avoid Stretching the Fabric
When feeding the fabric through the overlocker / serger do not pull or stretch the fabric. Be careful to let the machine do the work for you.
For heavy knits a sewing table extension on a machine is helpful as it prevents the weight of the fabric causing drag and stretch as it goes through the machine.
9. Sew Slowly!
Knits are tricky to overlock / serge for several reasons and it is better to slow down with heavier and thicker knit fabric.
When stitching fast you run the risk of loops of the fabric or wool getting caught in the machine itself which can create a bunching or birds nest effect. Woolly knits are difficult so a slower stitch rate will give you a more even and also a straight result.
10 Finish The Seams
One of the benefits of an overlocker / serger is the ability to finish the edges of the fabric as it is stitched. An overlocked edge will prevent the fabric from fraying and provide a professional looking finish. It is well worth taking the time to master the art of overlocking wool and knits: keep going and don't give up!
11 To Stretch or Not to Stretch..
If you want the seam or hem you are overlocking to stretch choose a stitch that will give some stretch and play (see your specific overlocker settings).
If you want the seam you are stitching not to stretch, eg if you are attaching a sleeve to a garment and you want the seam to maintain its size and shape then attach a ribbon to maintain the shape. Using a ribbon which matches the garment colour and is stitched inside the seam need not be seen in the finished garment but will serve to hold the garment in shape.
If you do use a ribbon to strengthen a seam then remember when testing out the stitch tension and length also to add ribbon to your test piece of fabric to get your settings correct as the fabric will respond differently with the ribbon.
12. To Cut or Not to Cut?
Give some thought as to whether you want the knife engaged or disengaged.
If you are joining together parts of knitwear, for example a sleeve and the body, if you don’t want the whole end of your knitted part cut away then disengage the blade.
Whilst a well overlocked seam can prevent fraying even of knits, and cutting may be appropriate to reduce bulk, if you have to unpick and re-stitch the seam that may be a problem for you with massive fraying and you’ve also lost your seam allowance.
Learning to overlock wool and knits requires a little patience but is well worth it in the end so don't be discouraged and stick with it!
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