All Overlockers / Sergers are slightly different depending on which make you buy and your budget and what you plan to do with it etc. Typically they will all have some features in common and there is a general layout that most will have in common.
It is important to check the manual of the overlocker / serger you buy to become familiar with your own machine's layout but here is a basic overview of what all machines have and a few top tips while we're here too!
Spool Holders The spool holders are where the thread reels sit towards the top back of the machine. Sometimes there are thread eyes on tall metal sticks (these look scary but they collapse down when putting the machine away) which the thread feeds through. It looks complex and dramatic but it's straightforward, so don't be frightened by the appearance!!
Tension Dials
The threads then pass by a series of dials on the upper front of the machine where you can control tension for the threads, in the same way you would for a normal sewing machine. From here, some threads then go to the needles (there are usually two needles on an overlocker / serger although sometimes you can chose to used just one) and some threads go to the loopers (loopers are a bit like the bobbin on a normal sewing machine: the counter threads to the needle threads).
There are grooves going down the machine below each of the tension dials which also form part of the threading pathway. As the threads pass though these grooves then it is within these grooves that the tension dials apply the tension to the threads. Adjusting the tension affects the quality of your stitches. Heavy or thick fabrics, or stretchy and woollen fabrics require a different thread tension to thin cottons for example.
Presser Foot
To the lower front left of the machine is the presser foot (again, as with normal sewing machines). The presser foot can be lifted up, to loosen tension, usually with a small handle which sits directly behind where the needles are attached to the sewing machine. The presser foot clamps down on the fabric to hold it steady as it feeds through the machine. A very heavy fabric may require the presser foot to clamp down with a greater pressure to hold it steady than, for example, a light cotton.
The presser foot is raised when threading up the overlocker / serger.
Differential / Feed Dogs
Under the presser foot is the differential (some call these the feed dogs) that is, the track that grabs the fabric and feeds it through the machine as you sew.
The Needles Above the presser foot are the overlocker / serger needles and there are usually two of them. These are attached to a little block (usually metal) where they are held in place, with small screws. Typically one needle (closest to the machine, on the right) will be slightly lower than the other.
Knife / The Blade Directly by the needle block is the overlocker / serger knife blade, if your machine has a blade ( and not all do). There is usually a handle to move the knife so you can disengage it if you don’t want to use it. When you move the knife you should feel it click securely into position when it is engaged or disengaged. Always take great care handling this blade as it is very sharp!
Blades can be removed and replaced as they lose their sharpness and usually they can be removed by loosening the screw that keeps them in place.
Dial to Adjust Differential Speed Usually situated on the right hand side far end of the serger / overlocker is a dial where you can adjust the differential speed, that is, how quickly the fabric is pulled through the machine by the feed dogs.
Dial to Adjust Stitch Length There is a stitch length dial usually situated on the right hand side / end of the overlocker / serger. This adjusts the length of the stitch, which works in the same way that you would adjust your stitch length on a sewing machine.
Manual Machine Rotation Dial There is usually a wheel on the right hand end of the overlocker / serger with which you can manually rotate the machine to adjust the height of the needles and other moving parts of the machine when you are threading it up. Manual machine rotation can usually be done without the power on, and indeed you should not have the power on when threading up a machine.
Power On / Off Switch and Power Cable Port
The power on and off switch, usually a rocker switch, is also on the right hand side of the machine. You will also usually find the port for you to connect the power cable and the foot pedal to operate the overlocker / serger somewhere on the right hand side of the machine.
Removable Front Cover
The front cover of the overlocker / serger, which usually covers an area to the bottom right hand side of the machine, can be removed, folded down or lifted off, depending on your machine. Removing this cover enables you to see the moving parts of the overlocker / serger and the various hooks and eyes system that you need to access in order to be able to thread the machine up.
Behind this cover is really where the most complex part of the threading happens and you usually find you have a basic diagram printed somewhere on your overlocker / serger, perhaps with a colour key for different thread paths, to assist you in threading up. If there is no printed diagram on the machine, check in your manual.
Remember, all overlockers / sergers are slightly different so this article has been just a general overview of what to expect. For the precise layout of your own overlocker / serger you will need to consult the manual that goes with your machine. Which brings us to:
Overlocker / Serger Manual
Golden Rule Number 1: Keep your manual safe! If you lose or if you do not have your manual there are places on line where you can download a copy. A good place to start, if you're looking to download a copy of your manual, is on your machine manufacturer's website. Sometimes you see old manuals on Ebay or in overlocking / serging groups or forums you can occasionally ask someone to send you a copy of the relevant page of a manual (although obviously we are not recommending breaking copyright rules!!)
How Difficult is an Overlocker / Serger to Use?
Dont Fear The Overlocker / Serger!!
Many people are frightened or worried about the complexity of an overlocker / serger and they can look a bit intimidating. But they are not as difficult to use as you may think and many people that successfully use them are not rocket scientists. The most complex bit is threading up and this is often made easier now with colour diagrams clearly to show the path each individual thread takes through the machine. Once you've made the effort to understand and learn the threading pathways and you've done it a few times you will find the fabulous, professional finish an overlocker / serger gives to your work is well worth it!
Be bold and go for it!!
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