What's the Difference Between an Overlocker and a Sewing Machine?

Here's a quick summary of the main differences between an Overlocker / serger and a sewing machine. More detail in specific areas of difference is set out in other blog posts. This blog post is designed to give you a basic understanding.

Overlocker / Serger compared to a Sewing Machine

Stitch Types

Overlockers create a more professional looking, strong and durable edge with stitches such as 4-thread overlock, rolled hem and flatlock stitches.

Sewing machines create decorative and functional stitches such as straight stitches, zigzag, and embroidery patterns.

Number of Threads

Overlockers use multiple threads such as 3, 4 or even 5 to creatw strong, secure seams and edges.

Sewing machines use only 1 or 2 threads, depending on the stitch type.

Cutting Mechanism

Overlockers have built-in cutting blades that trim the fabric as they sew, creating clean edges simultaneously. Remember accuracy is important because each time you unpick and restitch a seam you may cut a little more away to get the stitches to line perfectly to the edge. You can disengage the cutting mechanism but then its more difficult to get the edge of the fabric to perfectly align with the stitch loops.

Sewing machines do not have a fabric-cutting mechanism, requiring manual trimming before or after sewing. This is a little more time consuming.

Seam Finishing

Overlockers excel at finishing raw fabric edges to prevent fraying, making them ideal for knit fabrics and woven materials which may be prone to unravelling. The raw edges are bound by the stitches so don't fray.

Sewing machines can also finish edges using specialised stitches like the zigzag or overcast stitch but may not be as efficient or neat as an overlocker and this requires more skill and patience!

Speed

Overlockers / sergers generally sew at faster speeds compared to regular sewing machines, making them more efficient for projects that require continuous, high-speed stitching. Don't get carried away with speed though, as you're trimming fabric as you stitch!

Sewing machines work at slower speeds than overlockers / sergers.

Versatility

Overlockers / sergers, while excellent for neat edge finishing, have limited versatility and are not suitable for all sewing tasks. They are not suitable for applique type work e.g. you wouldn't use one for sewing on a patch pocket.

Sewing machines are more versatile and can handle a wide range of tasks, including garment construction, quilting, and intricate stitching.

Fabric Handling

Overlockers are particularly well-suited for stretchy fabrics like knits and jersey due to their ability to create flexible seams that accommodate fabric movement. As they have a variable differential you can use them for stretching fabrics or gathering fabrics.

Sewing machines can handle various fabric types, but they may require specific stitches and settings for stretchy materials.

Hemming Techniques

Overlockers/ sergers are excellent for creating rolled hems on lightweight fabrics, providing a professional and clean edge. One of the primary functions of an overlocker is to create a rolled hem. By adjusting the settings and changing to a specific presser foot, you can achieve an extremely neat, narrow and professional-looking rolled hem, which is ideal for lightweight fabrics and decorative finishes.

Overlockers / sergers can also create a flatlock seam, which is a type of decorative seam often used in, for example, sportswear and lingerie.

Sewing machines can also perform hemming, but not as fast and the results may differ in appearance and texture. A standard sewing machine can create a simple straight stitch hem, which is commonly used for hems on a wide range of fabrics. To hem with a sewing machine you have to use a specific technique: you fold the fabric edge over once or twice to conceal raw edges and then sew a straight stitch along the folded edge. You can adjust the stitch length and tension to achieve the desired finish.

Sewing machines can also be used to create a zigzag stitch hem for stretchy or knitted fabrics. The zigzag stitch allows for some flexibility and prevents the hem from popping when the fabric stretches.

Many modern sewing machines have a blind hem stitch option, which creates a nearly invisible hem on the right side of the fabric. This is commonly used on dress pants and formalwear.

Some sewing machines have a special foot and setting for creating rolled hems, which are delicate and often used on lightweight fabrics like chiffon or silk.